New Launch: The Radiance by COUTURE
Photo credit: @maggisimpkins
Starring 13 BIPOC jewelry designers and De Beers’ Code of Origin diamonds
This is the start of something beautiful. Earlier this month, the COUTURE Show debuted a special project in partnership with De Beers—The Radiance by COUTURE, a showcase of capsule collections from 13 emerging BIPOC designers.
The initiative is the culmination of a mentorship program created by COUTURE’s Diversity Action Council (DAC). The DAC was formed in 2020 to address systemic racism in the fine jewelry industry and to amplify BIPOC voices.
Each of the 13 “Radiant” designers was handpicked by the DAC, which is made up of retailers, designers, press, and other industry insiders. In addition to the one-on-one mentorship program with designers like Lauren Godfrey and Zoë Chicco, the DAC hosted education sessions with industry experts, and partnered with De Beers to provide the designers with Code of Origin diamonds and a production budget to develop their capsule collections.
Each Code of Origin diamond has a unique, microscopic code to provide assurance that the diamonds are conflict-free and in line with De Beer’s commitments to social and environmental responsibility.
“Code of Origin means that each diamond has a QR code—it’s scannable and traceable. You can see exactly what the mine is doing in their communities to give back, which I think is so important and necessary. That should really be a baseline,” said Radiant designer Maggi Simpkins.
Read on to meet the Radiant designers, and for a sneak peek at their collections.
Photo Courtesy of Starr Digital
Angely Martinez
An art enthusiast and frequent museum visitor, Angely Martinez explores fantasy, nature, poetry, and romanticism in her work. Her collection, “Fertile Ascension,” represents the cycle of life using the humble earthworm as a metaphor for physical inspiration.
Ashley Thorne of A.M. Thorne
Ashley Thorne celebrates the natural beauty of the materials she works with in her collection, “Flow.” Her elegant yet playful approach aims to reconnect the wandering mind and empower the wearer.
Jules Kim of Bijules
Jules Kim launched her brand in 2002, promoting her work on the streets of NYC and in the city’s storied nightclubs (where she was formerly a DJ). Her capsule collection, “Compassion,” draws inspiration from music and her background as a classically trained flutist. Many of her innovative pieces can be worn in multiple ways, enabling the wearer to choose their own style preference.
Kassandra Gordon of KLG Jewellery
Kassandra Gordon fell in love with jewelry’s ability to transcend time and convey feelings. Starting with a gold locket, a gift from her mother when she was nine years old, she has always associated jewelry with love and viewed it as a showcase for emotions. She created her capsule collection to reflect cultural heritage, legacy, and relationships.
Khadijah Fulton of White/Space
Originally a fashion designer, Khadijah Fulton was drawn to the longevity and emotional aspects of fine jewelry. Her capsule collection, “Touch,” continues her exploration of line and form, infused with sensual curves. Inspired by minimalism, her designs are all about the power of simplicity.
Lola Oladunjoye of Lola Fenhirst
Lola Oladunjoye was a technology transaction attorney in Silicon Valley for 18 years before realizing her desire to express her creative side. Fittingly, her work explores contrast and balance, combining ancient goldsmithing techniques with state-of-the-art technology, and merging European tradition with African aesthetic. Her capsule collection is inspired by African modernism and traditional West African cultural motifs.
Lorraine West
Lorraine West’s collection includes her “Stack your Carats” concept, which allows for three rings to nestle together seamlessly with the intention of representing meaningful life events, such as engagement, anniversaries, and push presents. She considers relationships when she is designing her pieces, and is inspired by how jewelry can convey the sentiments and emotions of its wearer.
Maggi Simpkins
Maggi Simpkins’s capsule collection is a playful display of her affinity for history and vintage aesthetics. Her jewelry is narrative driven, emphasizing the stories behind the pieces and their sentimental value. Her bubble rings feature a halo inlay of malachite, opal, pink opal, lapis, and turquoise and are intended to be gender-neutral.
Melanie Eddy
Melanie Eddy often views herself as a sculptor, designing structures for the body. Her bold, faceted metal designs are inspired by architecture and explore the relationship between form and the human body.
Olivia Shih
Olivia Shih designed her capsule collection, “Lucid”, with the introvert in mind. The iceberg-esque faceted quartz pieces are impaled with gold, symbolizing the bursts of lucidity that occur in life and provide clarity.
Sara Bautista of Common Rite Supply
Sara Bautista infuses her designs with tension, illustrating her critical and analytical nature (as well as being a self-described “fool”). Rooted in academia, she is fascinated with the study of stories and humanity. She often uses hand motifs in her work to represent storytelling and the retelling of history through jewelry.
Viviana Langhoff
Viviana Langhoff’s vintage-esque collection is inspired by the four elements—fire, earth, air, and water. After exploring many different art mediums, she found satisfaction in the meticulous nature of metalsmithing, and was drawn to the ability to convey history through art.
Zulaikha Aziz of Mazahri
After fleeing Afghanistan with her family as a child, the only tangible connection Zulaikha Aziz had to her native country was the jewelry her grandmother was able to preserve. After working as a human rights attorney for many years, she launched her brand, Mazahari, in 2020. The brand is aptly named after her grandmother and aims to celebrate the beauty and joy of her culture and heritage.
Editor: Rebecca Daly
Wordsmith: Sam Van deWalle
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