Keep It Secret
Photo credit: @gemondo
These gems reveal a hidden message
Parlez vous diamonds? Or amethyst? or turquoise? Most of us have pieces of jewelry that speak to us on a personal level, but the Victorians really took it to another level (as they were wont to do), using gemstones to spell out encoded messages to their beloveds and paramours.
Called “acrostic” jewelry, we have Napoleon to thank for the practice. An original early adopter, he commissioned the French maison Chaumet to create several pieces for Empress Josephine, including bracelets featuring her children’s names.
To compose a secret alphabet, each gem corresponds to the first letter of its name—amethyst for A, beryl for B, citrine for C, and so on. Words like “dearest” and “regard” were especially popular in the 1800s, making maximal use of the “alphabet” commonly available at the time—amethysts, diamonds, garnet, rubies, sapphire, and topaz.
With a broader array of stones now readily available, contemporary designers have filled in the phonetic gaps, creating an au courant take on a centuries-old trend with modern-day mantras like “dream” or “protect.” Read on to find a piece you’ll lapis-opal-verdelite-emerald (ie, love).
“DREAM”
British-based Gemondo specializes in jewelry designed as a wearable expression of personality, like this ring from their “Coded Whispers” collection that spells out “Dream” in the brand’s signature ethically-sourced gemstones.
D (diopside)
R (ruby)
E (emerald)
A (amethyst)
M (moonstone)
“AMARE”
Torie Tilley founded Common Era to unite her passion for jewelry with her love of ancient history and mythology. To wit, these stunning sparklers spell out “Amare,” meaning “to love” in Latin.
A (amethyst)
M (moonstone)
A (aquamarine)
R (ruby)
E (emerald)
“AMOUR”
A bracelet truly fit for a queen (or Empress, as the case may be), Chaumet still offers variations on the pieces commissioned by Napoleon for Josephine. Customize your own, or opt for the house’s pre-set suggestion, “Amour.”
A (aquamarine)
M (moganite)
O (opal, pink)
U (uvite, green)
R (ruby)
Chaumet Paris “Les Acrostiches Jeux De Liens” bracelet in rose gold with gemstone, price upon request at Chaumet Paris
“PROTECT”
Designer Elizabeth Gibson was already busy with her brand Eliza Page Jewelry, but felt the concept of acrostic jewelry was ripe for a revival. She created Scribe to reimagine the secret language of gems for the modern era, with signature and customizable styles layered with meaningful messages, like this ring that reads, “Protect.”
P (pink sapphire)
R (ruby)
O (opal)
T (topaz, blue)
E (emerald)
C (citrine)
T (topaz, white)
Scribe Jewelry “Petite Rainbow Compass” ring in 14k yellow gold with gemstones, $990 at Scribe Jewelry
“HOT”
Lulu Frost has long been a favorite of New York’s fashion editors for creative director Lisa Salzer’s one-of-a-kind blend of vintage and modern references and ever-so-slightly irrevential aesthetic. Case in point: this necklace from her “CODE Words” jewelry collection which spells out “Hot” (Queen Victoria could never!).
H (hematite)
O (opal)
T (turquoise)
“DEAREST”
A shining example from the original era of acrostic jewelry, this bracelet, circa 1880, spells out the then-popular word “Dearest” in precious gems. We can only surmise that the diamond halo settings of each stone—not commonly seen in acrostic pieces—indicate that the recipient was very dear indeed.
D (diamond)
E (emerald)
A (amethyst)
R (ruby)
E (emerald)
S (sapphire)
T (topaz)
Antique Victorian “DEAREST” acrostic bracelet in 18k yellow gold with gemstones and diamonds, $11,387.42 at 1stDibs
MAKE IT PERSONAL
Nothing above speaking to you? One of our talented jewelry partners (like Pieces of Starr) can create something more you. A note-to-self? The name of a childhood pet? Whatever you choose (even if it’s your favorite four-letter word) is sure to come out beautifully—in this case, the medium truly is the message.
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Editor: Rebecca Daly
Every item featured is personally selected by our writers and editors (read: we're totally into it). Please know that when you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission (read: we get to keep doing what we love).