Shopping Guide: Chains, Chains, Chains
Photo credit: @zoelevjewelry
A foolproof guide to golden links
From statement to subtle, worn layered or alone, a gold chain is one of the most enduring pieces of jewelry one can own. I speak from experience—my own everyday essential is a braided chain bracelet from designer Aurélie Bidermann that magically matches everything in my closet. It’s the ultimate one-and-done accessory. But a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Strengthen your knowledge with our gold chain guide to the interlocked inner workings of one of jewelry’s most timeless pieces.
Paperclip
Named for its resemblance to the humble paper fastener, designers are transforming this trend from its lowly origins into high jewelry with the help of precious metals. As a result, paperclip chains are enjoying a recent popularity that’s made them nearly as ubiquitous as their namesake desk supply. Our pick? This 14 karat gold version from Zoe Lev Jewelry where designer Stephanie is known for her ability to balance a modern aesthetic with refined elegance.
Zoe Lev 14k gold paperclip chain necklace, $560 at Zoe Lev
Curb or Cuban
Whether you call it a curb, Cuban, or—if you’re fancy—a gourmette chain, this perennially popular style is made up of linked ovals that have been hammered or diamond-cut flat. With origins in equestrian equipment, this characteristic innovation allowed the metal to lay comfortably under a horse’s chin. Lucky for humans, this makes it comfortable for us to wear, too. While curb chains are usually seen as necklaces, LA-based designer Loren Stewart channels her signature edgy aesthetic into unexpected pieces like this ring, made responsibly with recycled gold from local refineries.
Ball or Bead
If you hear the words “ball chain” and are immediately transported back to the `90s, you’re in for a shiny surprise. More polished than punk, the new millennium’s take on the trend is delicate and fine, like this one from Alex Woo, a New York-based designer known as much for her sustainability-sourced, precious-material chains as for the charms she creates to string on them.
Box Chain
Like a geometry problem (only with a solution that sparkles), box chains are made from square links interlocked in three dimensions to form a cubic or cylindrically shaped chain. For an A+ example, look to Lumina Gem’s estate collection, expertly curated by their team of jewelers, who boast over a century of combined experience in the industry.
Figaro
Figaro chains get their distinct look from a patterned link structure, usually a trio of flattened circles followed by an elongated oval. Originally hailing from Italy, legend has it the name derives from Italian operas (both The Barber of Seville and The Marriage of Figaro feature a main character with the moniker). Wear one solo, like this delicate version from Miansai, or create a diva-worthy look by layering several at different lengths.
Anchor or Mariner
Mariner chains take their name from the heavy links used to anchor boats. It makes sense, then, that the structure is one of the strongest out there, even done as delicate jewelry thanks to the middle dividing bar that supports each link. This 14 karat gold bracelet version from family-owned, Chicago-based Arezzo Jewelers is a ship-shape example. And no surprise, the company’s namesake town of Arezzo in Tuscany is known as the “Gold Capital of the World,” and expert jeweler Michael Spilotro has been at the helm for over thirty years.
Editor: Samantha Durbin Wordsmith: Rebecca Daly
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